Australian Wool Innovation eyes Gen Z fashion change at Stud Merino Breeders’ Association of WA annual meeting

The global fashion apparel market is on the crest of change as the next generation of consumers express their expectations around environmental and sustainability issues. This was the message of Australian Wool Innovation general manager of marketing communication, Laura Armstrong, at the Stud Merino Breeders’ Association of WA’s annual meeting at Cottesloe on March 22. “The eco-conscious movement is not going away,” she said. In addressing the strong crowd of 90 stud breeders and industry associates, Ms Armstrong said the Australian Merino wool industry would be challenged — particularly with many significant micron factors affecting the price of wool. “An example of the emerging reformed textile industry was new legislation considered in the fashion capitals of New York and France,” she said. “New York legislation requires every garment brand that wants to sell more than $100M to report on the full impact of their supply chain. “France has introduced a fast-fashion tax on cheap, throw-away polyester fashion and suppliers will have to pay $10 Euro to market every garment”. Ms Armstrong said new policies were being driven by a Product Environmental Footprint Methodology in which the EU compares fabrics to help customers on what is more impactful. “This methodology is over simplified and they’re zooming in on certain things that disadvantages woollen fabrics,” she said. “It’s unjust for wool; we must be in Europe and go to battle using the best scientists and influencers to have a seat at the table. “We are required to submit data to convince the policy makers — this is taking a huge amount of our resources, and depleted AWI’s marketing budget during the past two years,” She said nothing was in stone yet, but there was more work to be done. “There is an opportunity with wool if we can provide enough data and also provide a solution to their methodology,” Ms Armstrong said. “We must acknowledge that sustainability is a financial lever for our wool industry,” With casualisation of the workforce since COVID, Ms Armstrong said there was still a place for the woollen dress suit — possibly in a more casual way, “Sportswear is our golden opportunity — there are so many scientifically proven benefits of woollen fibre that enhance the athletic performance,” she said. “Woollen sports attire will also provide solutions to this industry as it aims to reduce their reliance on fossil-fuel fibres.” She said the post-COVID commerce recession was a reality for all economies around the world, and brands were feeling it. “It effects consumer confidence and the price of wool. Unfortunately, inflation is something we can’t control,” she said. “Generational change is also at hand with Gen Z coming into spending power — they will make up one-third of the workforce by 2030. “They have different ideals; they want better in environment and their wardrobes; they have a different expectation of what a brand should do.” Ms Armstrong said Gen Z would spend their money in ways that represented their ideals — by questioning who made the product, and whether it was made with traceability and transparency in mind. “Also, a target of AWI’s marketing strategies is to lift the reputation of wool: Australian wool as the ultimate sustainable fibre,” she said. “Building on our world-class reputation, wool should be seen as a natural and sustainable fibre.” She said in interviews with shoppers in New York, London, and France indicated they were not “fibre literate”. In other words, they were not thinking about fibre, rather only about colour, brand and style. “We have to connect the dots for the younger Gen Z. Post AWI’s Wear Wool Not Fossil Fuel campaign, consumer surveys have been positive ... with viewers considering wearing wool,” Ms Armstrong said. “AWI will release a new campaign in September, with a similar message. “China is our most important consumer market — they have the climate, affluence, affinity of wool. It’s easier to sell wool in China and a better return on the investment.” Ms Armstrong said AWI’s affiliation with the brand Prada was a big sports apparel win. “It’s the most influential brand in the world; what they do, everyone follows,” she said. “Wool is the only textile in the world that they will collaborate with. Since working with Prada, we have had 27 sports brands show interest which has generated $31m of media attention. “The fashion apparel industry is on the crest of change, and wool has a wonderful story to tell, but without the science and data we won’t be able to claim our fibre is the best in the world.” SMBAWA president Michael Campbell said the “Celebrating All Things Merino” themed meeting with seven guest speakers was a success.