Bare-rooted trees are sold without soil around their roots while they are dormant. They are usually available in nurseries from June through to August. Plants that come in bare-rooted are most commonly deciduous fruit trees, ornamental trees, roses and nut trees.

Pruning bare-rooted trees is essential for quick establishment and healthy growth. Because the root systems are pruned when they are harvested, this disrupts the tree’s ability to absorb moisture and nutrients. To restore balance between the roots and canopy, stem pruning is essential at planting time, ideally by one-third to one-half.

This reduction helps the tree focus its energy on fewer buds, allowing the limited root system to supply adequate nutrients. Pruning also promotes new, compact growth and an evenly balanced shape.

Before planting your tree, choose a position with enough sunlight and space to accommodate its mature height and width. Prepare the planting hole before leaving the roots exposed to air and have compost, mulch, water, stakes and tree guards ready before planting.

Step-by-step: How to plant bare-rooted trees

1. Soak the roots. Place the roots in a bucket of water for at least 30 minutes while you prepare the site. Do not soak them for days, as this can damage the roots.

2. Dig a wide hole. Make the hole wide enough for the roots to spread naturally without bending. The hole should usually be no deeper than the root system.

3. Improve the soil. Perth has notoriously poor soil, so mix compost or aged organic matter into the hole. In clay soils add compost and gypsum and potting mix.

4. Trim damaged roots. Remove broken, crushed or very long root ends with clean secateurs. Keep as many fine feeder roots as possible.

5. Set the tree at the right height. Use the old soil mark on the trunk as a guide. If the tree is grafted, you must keep the graft union above soil level.

6. Spread the roots. Build a small mound of soil in the centre of the hole and arrange the roots over it so they point outwards.

7. Backfill and firm gently. Return soil around the roots, shaking the tree lightly so soil settles into gaps. Firm the soil with your hands or foot, but do not compact it heavily.

8. Water deeply. Water slowly to settle the soil and remove air pockets. Add more soil if the level drops after watering.

9. Mulch the root zone. Apply a wide layer of mulch around the tree, keeping it clear of the trunk.

Once your tree is planted the priority is to help the tree establish a strong root system. Water deeply and regularly during dry periods, especially through the first spring and summer. The first two summers are critical to keep up the moisture levels. Keep mulch 5-10cm away from the trunk to reduce the risk of rot, and don’t fertilise until you see new growth.

Tip of the week

When spring leaf growth appears, apply liquid Neutrog Seamungus and in summer a granular fertiliser like Ecogrowth Blue, or any slow-release fertiliser that has macro and micro nutrients.

Three jobs to do now

1. If you want to change the colour of hydrangea flowers from pink to blue, now is the time to apply aluminium sulphate and repeat monthly.

2. Plant out winter flowering annuals like primula, viola and polyanthus, and choose hellebores while they are in flower.

3. Prune off galls in citrus that don’t have exit holes before the eggs hatch in spring.

Do you have a question for Sabrina?

To submit a question to Green With Envy, inside Saturday’s The West Australian, write to Ask Sabrina, GPO Box D162, Perth, 6001 or email home@wanews.com.au. Please include your full name and suburb. Due to the volume of questions, not all of them will be answered.