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City escape a breath of fresh air

Penny ThomasThe West Australian
Tourists enjoying the scenic views across the Jamison Valley from Echo Point Lookout in the Blue Mountains.
Camera IconTourists enjoying the scenic views across the Jamison Valley from Echo Point Lookout in the Blue Mountains. Credit: Time Out/Time Out

Standing at what feels like the edge of the world at Sublime Point lookout in the Blue Mountains, I am in awe of the dramatic landscape surrounding me.

From this vantage point, the mountains do in fact appear to be blue, or a deep indigo colour to be specific. But despite its name, the Blue Mountains are not actually blue. Apparently, the bluish haze that blankets the region is caused by oil-bearing eucalyptus trees that disperse tiny droplets of oil into the atmosphere, which when combined with dust, vapour and sunlight create a blue hue — hence the name.

Best-known for its beautiful rugged scenery and quaint mountain villages, I’m in the spectacular Blue Mountains for a quick three-day trip, which is about a 90-minute drive from Sydney, or a two-hour journey by train.

Nestled between the town of Katoomba and the peaks of Mt Victoria, I’m staying in the charming suburb of Blackheath. Best described as a bohemian village, this is a great place to base yourself when exploring the region because of its proximity to popular lookouts, and it has a good selection of cool cafes, restaurants and shops, too.

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Kyah Boutique Hotel
Camera IconKyah Boutique Hotel Credit: StevenWoodburn

Being a popular tourist destination, there is no shortage of accommodation in Blackheath. From caravan parks with picture-perfect views, to heritage hotels and self-contained guesthouses, there is something for everyone and every budget.

I’m staying at the relatively new Kyah Boutique Hotel. The family-owned hotel opened in December and brings a breath of fresh air to the Blue Mountains. Once a 1970s motel, Sydney-based MKD Architects helped transform the property into the contemporary hotel it is today, which has 46 guestrooms, an incredible garden-to-plate restaurant, plus a full-size tennis court and a heated indoor swimming pool.

Reminiscent of the type of places you would expect to find entertainers like Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Sammy Davis Jr holidaying in their glory days, the hotel boasts a Palm Springs-inspired design with a hint of old Hollywood glamour. And while this aesthetic is somewhat unexpected in the Blue Mountains, it feels strangely appropriate at this modern mountain retreat.

Rooms are spread across three separate accommodation wings, which are each named after one of Katoomba’s famed Three Sisters. The hotel’s swanky restaurant and bar Blaq is located next to the cactus-fronted lobby and minimalist reception area. It overlooks a century-old Japanese cherry blossom tree and has several fireplaces that evoke a sense of warmth befitting of its mountain locale.

Blaq at Kyah Boutique Hotel
Camera IconBlaq at Kyah Boutique Hotel Credit: StevenWoodburn

Because I have an aunt who lives in Leura, which is less than a 15-minute drive from Blackheath, we decide to catch up and check out a few lookout points in Leura and Katoomba. We begin at the Sublime Point lookout platform, which offers sensational views of the Jamison Valley and is only a short walk from the carpark at the end of Sublime Point Road. Even on a misty day like today, the view is spectacular.

Next, we visit Echo Point to see the iconic Three Sisters, a trio of sandstone pillars jutting over Jamison Valley. Legend has it that the sisters — Meenhi, Wimlah and Gunnedoo — were turned to stone by their overprotective father, who was killed before he could reverse the decision. So the three hapless girls remain silent sentinels, illuminated by afternoon sun and beloved by selfie-snapping crowds gathered at Echo Point.

Sunrise over the Three Sisters and Mount Solitary in the Blue Mountains National Park, Katoomba.
Camera IconSunrise over the Three Sisters and Mount Solitary in the Blue Mountains National Park, Katoomba. Credit: Filippo Rivetti/Filippo Rivetti

After exploring the incredible sights of Leura and Katoomba, I make my way to the epicentre of old-world allure at Lilianfels Resort and Spa, which offers an extensive list of spa rituals, massage therapy and body treatments. Treated to a full-body massage for more than an hour, I emerge from the silent treatment room in a complete state of zen. And given the constellation of knots around my neck and shoulder blades are now non-existent, I can happily say that this was the best massage I’ve ever had.

At Lilianfels, you can enjoy a meal at Darley’s Restaurant, which is renowned for its fresh, local produce, fine wines and innovative cuisine — although it is a bit fancy, so you might want to freshen up after a spa treatment. Alternatively, there are many restaurants, cafes and bars nestled in historic venues throughout the region including Ates Blackheath, Bunker Cafe in Leura and of course Blaq at the Kyah Boutique Hotel.

And, on your way back to Sydney, stop in at Hillbilly Cider Shed in Bilpin. Here you can enjoy award-winning apple cider and delicious woodfired pizzas.

A destination for all seasons

As for when is the best time of year to visit the Blue Mountains, it really depends on the type of getaway you’re after. However, be aware that it is significantly cooler in the Blue Mountains than in Sydney and on the coast of New South Wales. In fact, the average temperature in the upper mountain region reaches about 18C in summer, while in winter it doesn’t often top 5C.

But although the days are cold and crisp in winter, I personally enjoyed visiting at this time of year because of how majestic the mountains look on a misty morning. Plus, the cooler weather gives you a good excuse to buy handcrafted chocolates and enjoy mulled wine beside a heritage-hotel fireplace.

In summer, it’s all about exploring the region on foot and breathing in the fresh mountain air. There are many bushwalks to suit all fitness levels. Whether you’re up for a challenge or a more relaxed stroll, start at the Blue Mountains Heritage Centre at Blackheath to find safe bushwalking trails to add to your itinerary, pick up maps and find out about local tours and organised discovery walks.

The shoulder seasons during autumn and spring are also a good time to visit if you want to see the landscape in burnished colours of red, orange and yellow, or thousands of species of wildflowers display their striking colours.

Top attractions

  • The Three Sisters is the number one attraction in the Blue Mountains.
  • Govetts Leap is an impressive spot with breathtaking views of the blue-gum forested valley, with bottlebrush, acacia and myrtle flowers dotted around.
  • For nature-loving thrillseekers, Scenic World offers adventures such as cable car rides and rainforest walks in the majestic Jamison Valley.
  • Wentworth Falls Picnic Area is a 30-minute drive away, where you can take a short bush walk to Wentworth Falls.

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