Home

Scenic routes excite the senses

Mogens JohansenThe West Australian
VideoKununurra tours

Flying high

Like a giant water serpent, the Ord River slithers its way through the ancient East Kimberley landscape.

I’m on board Aviair’s Bungle Bungle and Lake Argyle scenic flight from Kununurra. As we take off, the first rays of the morning sun light up a magnificent scene below me. The 300 million-year-old quartz sandstone formations of Mirima National Park and the Kununurra township are surrounded by a sea of green.

Plantations with sandalwood and mango trees dominate Packsaddle Plains adjacent to Lake Kununurra but I can also see fields with a variety of fruit and vegetables. All of it fed by the Ord Irrigation Scheme, which was developed in the 1960s and 70s.

Get in front of tomorrow's news for FREE

Journalism for the curious Australian across politics, business, culture and opinion.

READ NOW

As we climb to our cruising altitude, our pilot, Renee Matters, gives us a running commentary about what lies below us. The sheer scale and rugged beauty of the landscape is a real revelation. The Ord River is flowing strong and we see several waterfalls as we fly over the Carr Boyd Range. The enormity of Lake Argyle becomes apparent as we approach it. The dam wall that holds it all back seems tiny in comparison. Renee tells us it’s the largest man-made lake in Australia. The numbers are staggering.

The Ord River near Kununurra.
Camera IconThe Ord River near Kununurra. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian

Normally, Lake Argyle has a surface area of about 1000sqkm and holds about 21 times the volume of water contained in Sydney Harbour. However, it can hold up to 35 million megalitres of water and cover a surface area of more than 2000sqkm — about 40 times the size of Sydney Harbour. It’s the flight that just keeps giving, the landscape changes constantly as we fly across Lissadel and Texas Downs stations on the way to Purnululu National Park — home of the famous Bungle Bungle Range.

This is what I’ve been looking forward to and it doesn’t disappoint. Formed more than 360 million years ago, these beehive shaped structures and gorges on the edge of the Tanami Desert look stunning in the morning light. Among the orange and black striped sandstone domes, I see plenty of lush green vegetation and flowing water.

Heading back to Kununurra, we fly over the Argyle Diamond Mine, which has come to the end of its life. The scar of the open cut mine looks out of place amid the unspoilt wilderness. The mine, which opened in 1885, has produced 865 million carats of rough diamonds but is most famous for the rare pink diamonds it produced.

A waterfall in Carlton gorge along the Ord River near Kununurra.
Camera IconA waterfall in Carlton gorge along the Ord River near Kununurra. Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian

On the Ord River

“This is where we leave civilisation,” our skipper, Jeff Hayley, says as we depart Kununurra on Triple J Tours Ord River Explorer cruise.

Our destination, the base of the Ord River Dam at Lake Argyle, lies 55km upstream. The water level is 12m higher compared to that at Lake Kununurra. As a result of the difference in elevation, there’s a strong current in the upper reaches of the river. Hence, Triple J Tours’ comfortable vessel is powered by twin V8 outboards that can propel us along at speeds up to 60km/h, so there’s no need for alarm.

The first part of the cruise is done at speed. Ribbons of green along the banks flash by and we are quickly among the sandstone cliffs of the Carr Boyd Range. This is where the fun really starts. Jeff slows down and stops regularly to point out flora and fauna and explain the geology of the range.

Here on the river, I immediately feel I’m in and part of the landscape. It’s an interesting contrast to flying above it. As we move upstream, the range gradually closes in around us and we stop to admire several waterfalls along the way. “This is a great time to visit, very few people see it like this,” Jeff says as he noses the boat in close to a particularly spectacular waterfall in Carlton Gorge.

There’s much to see. Apart from the water falls and stunning scenery, we spot freshwater crocodiles, a colony of flying foxes, a pair of white-bellied sea eagles and many other birds. In the last few kilometres before the dam, the river gets quite shallow, narrow and fast flowing.

It’s a thrilling ride. Jeff needs to drive at speed both to keep momentum against the current and to be able to steer effectively. At the dam, we disturb a large crocodile sunning itself on the warm rocks by the riverside. It slides quickly into the water as we approach. On the way back, we enjoy afternoon tea at a riverside camp where there’s a tiered waterfall before arriving in Kununurra in time to see the sunset.

The Carr Boyd Range near Kununurra and Lake Argyle .
Camera IconThe Carr Boyd Range near Kununurra and Lake Argyle . Credit: Mogens Johansen/The West Australian

4WD in the wilderness

Many of us dream of a four-wheel drive adventure when visiting a place like Kununurra but it can be an unforgiving place if you don’t know what you are doing. A knowledgable local guide who knows all the spots and a comfortable go-anywhere vehicle can add so much extra value to a day out in the bush.

Ian Harvey, from HOT Tours, runs a range of day and half-day tours around Kununurra. Although he runs tours all year round, Ian reckons the wet season is the best time to visit Kununurra. And being a one-man band means he is very adaptable and can change his tour to suit whatever the conditions are at any given time.

“No tour is ever the same because weather conditions can change from day to day and it’s the best time to see nature in its grandeur. The waterfalls are pumping, the landscape is green and the animal life is prolific,” he says.

Ian picks me up in his specially modified seven-seat Toyota LandCruiser Troop Carrier. We begin the tour with a visit to Kelly’s Knob lookout, where Ian gives me an overview of the town and where we will be heading.

We are going to explore the area around the Ngamoowalem Conservation Park on the western side of the Ord River, where there are some nice waterfalls flowing at the moment.

Ian’s commentary and knowledge about the country is second only to his knowledge about four-wheel driving. Water crossings, tricky ascents and descents are negotiated with ease and confidence. There are many highlights and thrills along the way.

Among them, a hike to the top of Middle Springs, where we cool off in one of the pools and watch the water cascade down the mountain. Another is a visit to Black Rock Falls, which featured in the ABC drama, Mystery Road. Oh, I nearly forgot to mention the spectacular lunch we enjoyed at Middle Springs.

Mogens Johansen was a guest of Tourism Western Australia. They have not seen or approved these stories.

fact file

  • For more on Aviair’s scenic flights, visit aviair.com.au or phone 1800 095 500.
  • Find out more about Triple J Tours Ord River Cruises at triplejtours.com.au or call 9168 2682.
  • Call Ian Harvey on 0407 725 259 to find out more about his HOT Tours or visit hottours.com.au

Get the latest news from thewest.com.au in your inbox.

Sign up for our emails