Avalon restaurant review: Bold flavours and live music reign supreme at Claremont’s new fine-diner

There’s no rule to say the quintessential fine-dining experience should be fickle beyond the food. But while there’s a common-thread formula many restaurants employ, at this level (and price) every facet of the experience comes into play. Happening upon a restaurant touting live music every evening, recently opened in February, my interest was piqued. Jazz, piano, vocals and Mediterranean-inspired dishes with a twist. The menu looks good, the concept sounds intriguing. Avalon is Claremont’s ritzy new fine-diner nestled beneath a 16-storey residential complex. Co-owners Simone Sichel and George Tsimpidis (also head chef) are aiming to create a fresh dining experience with a 120-seater driven by “fusion techniques” in the kitchen and live music on the floor. We arrived on a Saturday night to a whisper-quiet street. Ascending giant concrete steps towards the restaurant’s dark facade left me hoping a bustling culinary Narnia was waiting beyond the door. A warm greeting, table for two and some (physically) sizable menus in our hands, we were left to gaze across the vast dining room. The place is big. Cavernous, even. Interiors are stylishly sleek with a monochrome palette and a feature wall of wine. A handful of tables were occupied as a solo musician settled in at the dining room’s piano. He played to an audience of empty tables as we, along with other diners, were sat on the other side of restaurant with little to no view. The experience felt a little lost. Nonetheless, service was sharp and attentive, so when told the prawn macarons with urchin, basil chips, green tomato salsa and makrut lime dust, $35 (for two), were considered their signature dish, we had to sample them. The plate was graciously delivered by the co-owner himself, who shared the background for the unusual sweet/savoury flavour pairing: a challenge from a pastry chef to create a dessert-inspired entrée. The peculiar-looking meringue discs sandwiching a creamy prawn filling were perched on a dollop of salsa, a lone urchin the cherry on top. The seafood components were perfectly palatable though I found it too cloying beyond the first few bites. It’s worth noting dishes are beautifully presented, constructed to impress. Much like the ocean salad, $34 — an artfully arranged scampi draped over mussels and prawns sautéed in saffron-chilli butter, atop a pillow of pistachio cream and lettuce. The scampi was fresh and sweet and the prawns adequate though the pistachio cream was mild in flavour. The almost all-Australian wine list is extensive. A handful of European wines are sold by the bottle only — an unusual choice here — with the exception of the Champagne offerings. Craft beers, spirits and luxe cocktails also appear. The arrival of mains shook things up in a positive way. Simply put: they were excellent. The beef wellington, $73, consisted of juicy beef cooked to pink perfection, enhanced by the golden pastry’s flaky texture, resting in a thin layer of Talijancich liqueur verdelho sauce. Glazed asparagus with almonds were a nice addition to finish off the richly satisfying dish. Equally as enjoyable, the Avon Valley Lamb with pistachio gremolata crust and lamb jus, $61, was tender and well-balanced, the pistachio gremolata adding a robust flavouring with the jus. It was paired with a side of freekeh (a roasted green durum wheat), makrut lime chips and coriander, which added a creamy nuttiness and texture that elevated the dish. The fresh fig opera joconde cake, $22, made for an elegant dessert. Glazed fig topping velvety layers of almond sponge soaked in coffee liquor was an indulgent end to the meal, with hazelnut and yuzu pearls an original touch. While the night we dined had a lacklustre vibe, service remained warm and efficient, with staff passionate about new and upcoming dishes. The live music concept is an alluring one, though it’s ambitious to create an intimate dining experience in such a large space. It’s clear the zealous team behind Avalon are ready for the challenge. A spot for those looking to eat outside their comfort zones. The verdict: 14/20 A sophisticated fine-dining restaurant in Claremont featuring live music every evening. Modern Australian dishes with bold flavour profiles, drawing on Mediterranean techniques. For those seeking something new. Avalon 1 Airlie St, Claremont Open Tuesday, Wednesday, 5.30pm–10pm; Thursday-Saturday, 11am–3pm and 5.30pm–11pm Contact 0427 240 588, avalonperth.com.au Bookings Yes