Berwick... I must go there one day

Have you ever been on a train, passed through a place and thought, I must go there one day? Well, I did exactly that on a recent visit to the Scottish Borders region of the United Kingdom.

The train journey between London King’s Cross and Gleneagles in Scotland is one I have taken many a time, visiting my parents in Scotland. The best part of the journey for me is where the train hugs the stunning Northumberland coast and approaches the medieval walled town of Berwick-upon-Tweed.

Heading northwards, as the train traverses the majestic Royal Border Railway Viaduct over the River Tweed, designed by Robert Stephenson and opened by Queen Victoria in 1850, I am treated to a stunning view of Berwick in all its glory. Every time I have made the journey over the last decade I’ve thought, I must visit Berwick one day.

On a hot summer’s day in July, I did and I wasn’t disappointed, with the town just as interesting at ground level as from the train window traversing a lofty bridge.

Berwick paints a picture of its troubled but interesting past, fought over by the English and Scottish. Between 1296 and 1482 alone, Berwick changed hands 13 times. Although it is now England’s most northerly town, it was once Scotland’s wealthiest burgh and its most important seaport.

The town is best known for its Elizabethan ramparts, the Walls, which are the most intact defensive walls in the UK. You can walk the walls today, a pleasant stroll of less than an hour, with information panels along the way and numerous points of interest.

Situated on the banks of the mighty River Tweed, Berwick also has a beautiful river walk where you can take in the three stunning bridges over the river — the Old Bridge (also known as Berwick Bridge) dating back to 1611 and King James I (King James IV of Scotland); the much younger Royal Tweed Bridge from 1928; and the Royal Border Bridge, from where my interest in Berwick was first piqued.

You are sure to see resident swans, with Berwick home to the second largest mute swan colony in the UK (Abbotsbury in Dorset lays claim to the largest colony).

Berwick has plenty of historic buildings, including the town hall dating back to the 1750s, the Barracks and Dewar’s Lane Granary.

Berwick’s history and landscape have captured the imagination of painters, including English painter L.S. Lowry, best known for his “matchstick men” paintings of Manchester and industrial north-west England.

Lowry visited Berwick many times for holidays during the mid-1930s up until the summer before he died in 1976. He painted and sketched the town’s historical buildings, landscape and sights. Today you can follow the Lowry Trail, a self-guided three-hour walk that includes the Elizabethan Walls and town, before crossing the River into Tweedmouth and Spittal. The walk features 19 panels highlighting Lowry’s subjects and his paintings. These include the Lions house which Lowry once considered buying, but the house was found to be riddled with damp. The once derelict house was almost demolished, but has since been restored to all its glory. Lowry also painted the Georgian Town Hall which dominates the town’s skyline.

While better known for his depictions of industrial England, Lowry was also fascinated by the sea, and his works include numerous paintings of the Northumberland coast from his trips to Berwick.

There are four beaches within walking distance of the town — Greenses Harbour, Pier Beach, Spittal Beach with its Victorian promenade, and Little Beach.

From Berwick, it’s easy to explore the Northumberland coast, which boasts some of the country’s most beautiful beaches. If you are up for a walk and have a few days to spare, the 100km-long Northumberland Coast Path starts/ends in Berwick, and takes you past beautiful sandy beaches, castles, fishing villages and the holy island of Lindisfarne.

So next time you get the urge to visit a place having seen it from a train window, just do it.