Epic adventure into State’s outback heart

The full moon is setting in the west as the sun rises in the east. It is dawn on the Great Central Road, and I am here, between the two great orbs, in the completely silent, completely motionless desert. I have written many times before that the Great Central Road is one of the safest, easiest drives in WA — after driving north from Kalgoorlie to Laverton, we head east through Warburton to the border. The Great Central Road is “our section” of the Outback Way, between Laverton, through the Northern Territory, past Uluru, and on to Winton in Queensland. There’s a three-day permit to travel this WA section, the Great Central Road, and there are roadhouses with fuel and accommodation about every 350km, and camping spots along the route. But it’s changing. Funding has been allocated to seal the road, work is under way, and it will continue to open up to more travellers. Eight years ago, when we first suggested the Great Central Road as a remarkable drive through a lot of unfenced and ungrazed landscape, from mulga to sand dune, it felt more like a big, dusty track. Today, even unsealed sections have already had significant work done to them — raising levels, adding a lot of good gravel. After just over 80km to Tjukayirla Roadhouse on that good gravel, I have driven on 50km of superb sealed road through dune country. On the road, there were caravans being towed by four-wheel-drives, a Toyota RAV 4, and a family in a Tarago people mover. The Great Central Road is an all-weather road, albeit that it was closed briefly when heavy rain swept through the deserts early this year. But many parts of the unsealed sections are corrugated. You will get shaken a lot, and for a long time. (The trick with corrugations is to find a safe speed which suits your vehicle and allows you to “travel over the top”, drive more smoothly, and letting the vehicle do its job.) I am on the Great Central Road with wife Virginia Ward and long-time travelling companions Grady Brand and Lesley Hammersley, and we pull off to camp. Under the clear sky of the Great Victoria Desert, the wind drops, and the temperature drops. We will wake to ice on the ute’s tonneau. But for now, I am just treated to silence and the complete stillness of the desert night. WA Minister for Transport and Planning Rita Saffioti says sealing the Great Central Road would not only greatly improve access for Aboriginal communities, but open up outback experiences for more travellers. “Sealing the Great Central Road will allow more visitors to travel this iconic route and experience a true Western Australian Outback adventure,” she says. WORK UNDER WAY The Outback Way is a 2700km route between Laverton in WA and Winton in Queensland, passing through the Northern Territory. More than 1400km of the total route remains unsealed, including almost 800km of the Great Central Road in WA. But the Federal and State Governments have jointly committed $166 million to seal priority sections of the road in WA, with the Shires of Laverton and Ngaanyatjarraku currently responsible for maintaining the road. That 50km section of road was sealed in 2018 by the Shire of Laverton. WA’s Main Roads is now upgrading a 40km section of Great Central Road. Construction started in September 2020. Working as part of the Wongutha Way Alliance, the current focus is to upgrade the section, starting from the existing sealed section 12km east of Laverton. “Project development for delivery of the next work package has started,” Main Roads says. “The first work package to seal the road is well under way, and 20 of the first 40km are now sealed. Earthworks have started to prepare for sealing of the next 20km section, which is due for completion in October.” Work under way soon will include a 10km section near Warburton and a 3km section near Warakurna. Construction is expected to begin late this year. “We’re also planning for delivery of a future work package near the Cosmo Newberry Community, 84km east of Laverton,” Main Roads says. LOCAL BENEFIT Main Roads is working as part of the Wongutha Way Alliance, which is an “alliance contract” between the department, CareyMC and Central Earthmoving Company. It was named Wongutha Way Alliance because “Wongutha” is the name covering the broad group of local Aboriginal people living in the area. The aim is to maximise Aboriginal employment and business opportunities to help benefit local communities. As part of the project, the alliance began a construction training program. Main Roads states: “Thirteen local Aboriginal people have participated so far. On-the-job training has been coupled with theory classes in Laverton as participants work towards completion of a Certificate III in Construction. “We’re committed to ensuring that Aboriginal participation opportunities, both in terms of employment of Aboriginal people and procurement from Aboriginal businesses, are created through the work we carry out; a commitment which is fundamental to the vision and goals of Wongutha Way Alliance.” LINES OF COMMUNICATION Wongutha Way Alliance’s logo has three circles joined by lines. Lines of travel, old and new. It was designed by Wongutha artist Noni Bonney and represents the story of the journey of the project. Main Roads explains: “The lines represent the road and the tracks of the people who are engaged with and for the project along the way. “The road connects each community as it passes through. Meetings take place with all stakeholders where they yarn to plan the works then celebrate as they move forward on the journey to the next destination. “The shape of the lines and locations of the communities is the map of the journey.” GREAT CENTRAL ROAD facts The first 800km from Perth through to Kalgoorlie is, of course, on bitumen highways. It’s just another 240km to Laverton on bitumen — so, by “morning tea” on day two, you’re right in it. Long sections of the Great Central Road are unsealed, dusty and corrugated, but well maintained. There’s fuel about every 250km to 300km apart on Great Central Road — at Laverton, Cosmo Newberry, Tjukayirla Roadhouse, Warburton, Warakurna Roadhouse and Docker River. Camping’s easy, and there’s accommodation along the way. (You don’t even need to camp.) Great Central Road is easy to navigate. And it’s easy to plan the trip. It is also promoted as the Outback Way, and there’s The Outback Way Atlas and Guide, with detailed maps and planning aids (outbackway.org.au). ON THE ROAD distances The overall route is Kalgoorlie, Menzies, Laverton, Warburton, Warakurna, then on (when we can) to the NT and Queensland. From Perth to Menzies is 880km from my home. I drive Great Eastern Highway to Kalgoorlie, then north. (It’s a big drive day, some might break the trip up more by stopping at Kalgoorlie.) Menzies to Laverton is about 220km, and you’re on the Great Central Road. Distances east from Laverton: Cosmo Newberry, 85km; Tjukayirla Roadhouse, 300km; Warburton, 560km; Warakurna Roadhouse, 786km; Docker River, 890km. From the WA border to Uluru (when we can cross) is about 240km. The final odometer reading shows that Voyages Ayers Rock Resort is 2150km from my home in Perth. ON THE ROAD sights There are gnammas (waterholes with plenty of zebra finches in the bushes), flocks of budgerigars, an almost-white dingo, herds of camels, and Indigenous art at roadhouses and Warburton art centre. There’s also the display of discarded car bodies along the way — dating back to old Kingswoods. Stop at Lake Throssell, read the history of Giles Weather Station and enjoy the Schwerin Mural Crescent Range and the Petermann Ranges. Camp at night and enjoy the silence and total stillness. ON THE ROAD planning Vehicle. You don’t need a hard core four-wheel-drive, but have your vehicle serviced and checked. Tell the mechanic where you’re going. Carry two spare wheels and a tyre plug set if they’re tubeless tyres, and some tools. Carry a metal plate or board to put under a jack on soft (gravel) surfaces. Another good accessory are lithium back-up batteries. Fuel. This is not an issue, because fuel is available at roughly 300km intervals, but I still carry a jerry can with spare fuel. Driving. Some of the road is quite corrugated, which is hard on shock absorbers, which generate heat and break down. Find a safe speed, fast enough to “travel over the top” of the corrugations, and drive smoothly. Comms. Don’t rely on mobile phone coverage. There are patches, but it certainly isn’t consistent. You can hire satellite phones (satellitephonesales.com.au), or buy a SPOT communicator that allows friends and family to track you. You can send a preset message (“All good”) and send an SOS. You are far from alone on the Great Central Road these days. Even though this is remote, someone will pass. Permit. Travellers need a permit, which gives three days to drive the Great Central Road. For the WA stretch, apply for a permit through the WA Government’s Department of Planning, Lands and Heritage (dplh.wa.gov.au and search for “travel permits”).