Demand for wool denim directs designers towards larger product range

A global trend towards different wool denim styles is leading to a much larger product range from jeans to suits, and even workwear and uniforms.

Australian Wool Innovation education extension program manager Kelly McAvoy said wool denim had grown in popularity since it was unveiled in 2014, and fabrics were now found in a variety of clothing styles — with the trend towards workwear and uniforms.

“We see a growing trend of wool in workwear and uniforms, which again wool denim qualities are perfect for,” Ms McAvoy said.

“It is not just jeans, we are seeing all fabric qualities for shirts, trousers, jackets and suits.”

Ms McAvoy said when she was working as the AWI Urban Category manager, her team launched a small wool denim capsule collection in 2014, showcasing the collection at Capsule, Las Vegas, Amsterdam Denim Days and Premiere Vision Paris.

“At the time we had approximately 10 wool denim suppliers,” she said.

“The collection was very well received, and we started to see other suppliers adding wool denim qualities to their ranges.”

Due to its growing popularity, AWI released a special Wool Denim Wool Lab theme as part of the Spring/Summer 2018 collection and two updates in 2019.

“This featured fabrics from more than 30 suppliers globally,” Ms McAvoy said.

“Since then, wool denim fabrics have been a constant feature for the Wool Lab, including themes of workwear, uniformal, eccentric bold and goblincore.

“For the current Autumn/Winter 2023/24 edition you will find wool denim fabrics in sport communities, youthformal and casualisation.”

She said suppliers of wool denim fabrics came from all over the globe, including China, Japan, Italy, Portugal, Taiwan, Turkey and the UK.

“We have worked with a number of international brands who have featured wool denim, including Levi’s 501 jean.”

According to The Woolmark Company global editor Lisa Griplas, denim as a fabric was used for a long time by sailors and jeans were worn by the working class looking for tough protection.

“During the mid-20th century jeans became popular in American pop culture when they became a garment symbolic of a protest against conformity,” Ms Griplas said.

“It was during the 1960s that the traditional blue jean started to become acceptable, and by the 1980s ‘designer jeans’ and denim took to the runways of the world.

“It was only a matter of time, then, before brands began incorporating a high-performance fibre such as Merino wool into their denim.”

Australian brands offering wool denim include Tooralie, Iris and Wool, Thomas Cook, RM Willams and Alubus Lumen, among others.